Viking of Kiev wrote: I see on flutemakers' sites is usually African Olive - is that more reliable than European or trees and trunks are larger there or smth. else?
See, that's the issue. The "African Olive" just says where the trees were harvested. Last time I checked Africa was a large geographic area with lots of environmental diversity. What's that tell you? Not much that is specific. It says nothing about the particular type of tree - the genetics -and so there is no way to determine what varieties are best suited for flute making. Much like boxwood I suspect - some boxwood is suitable some is just not suitable. But if one maker finds a good supplier of boxwood in Turkey then others follow.
One of the two olive wood flutes I have seen was a Windward. It was beautiful and it sounded great. The Windward web site states that they source their olive from a supplier in South Africa who supplies "instrument grade" timber. So my guess is that Windward has faith in their supplier and so far they are pleased with the results they get from that wood. That says little about the type of olive wood they are using. And I would guess Windward don't actually know the species of the wood at all just that it comes from trees that grow olives somewhere in Africa.
I wouldn't say African olive is any better or worse than Italian, Spanish, Moroccan, Greek or Jerusalem olive wood. In general I think olive is an acceptable wood for flute making. But that's just my personal opinion. So I wouldn't look only for "African". European olive should be just as suitable.
The agricultural practices around olive growing are apparently similar world wide. The trees are pruned annually so the overall size of the tree (and the resulting timber) is limited. The annual cuttings are likely not large enough to be used for flute making. The billets we would use come from trees that no longer produce sufficient fruit to stay in production. That wood has probably stood the test of time but in some case it has failed the test. When it is harvested the wood cutter has to determine what of it is suitable for a variety of uses. Some will be good for furniture making, some for crafts (tool handles or kitchen spoons maybe) and some will be suitable for firewood. The best grade of wood will be suitable for instrument making. You have to trust the wood supplier and the the flute maker in judging the individual pieces of timber. Remember that the flute building process is (or should be) a long one - to give the billets and bored blanks enough time to stabilize. If the timber makes it through that process without showing unusual changes in shape or cracking it should be good to go for a long time.
Viking of Kiev wrote:I was told on that forum that professional recorder's mouthpiece was much more demanding in respect of keeping to measurments - ie. it must be produced more carefully and accurately than a whistle's one.
Well you can't print anything that is not true on the Internet, or so I've read on the Internet.
That is just plain unmitigated nonsense! I'll say no more about recorder snobs. They need to get out of their excessively tight little circles more.
Viking of Kiev wrote:Moreover, wooden whistlemakers very often make the mouthpieces (windways) of their whistles from non-wood materials - as on the Abell whistles, for example.
Right, whistle makers do use alternative materials. For good reasons too. First we (whistle makers) are not strictly beholding to the designs, materials and processes defined at a particular point in time. So we are free to analyze the problems in woodwind design experienced by players and we can select solutions that counteract those issues. Recorder makers have to stick to the Baroque style of manufacturing. As they say "If it ain't Baroque, don't fix it."
But still, creative makers have found ways to retain the look of the Baroque and still alleviate the moisture issues. Moeck, Mollenhauer and others stabilize many of their timbers using a vacuum/pressure wax infusion process, or they once did. I wouldn't be surprised if they do a polymer stabilization today. I have maple/sycamore Moecks here that I've played for forty years or more that have not cracked. Without the wood being stabilized they would have splintered into toothpicks by now. Ever wonder why there are so few remaining original recorders from the Baroque period? My set of Yamaha ABS recorders are holding up well - should last forever.
Viking of Kiev wrote:So the contact with mouth moisture is not so dangerous. Recorder mouthpiece appears to be very sensitive to moisture and long time playing and even a small crack may completely ruin an instrument. This is the danger they warned olive flute lovers about. But is this due to the wood properties?
The old builders had other solutions to moisture too. The baroque builders would have gone out and killed an elephant to use ivory for their beaks since it was the miracle material of that era. So who's doing things right? I'd rather kill a delrinoceros than an elephant any day.
The whistle and the recorder have the same mouthpiece structure. The issues are the same. The solutions we employ are not the same. But flutes are entirely different animals at the noise making interface. So while un-stablized olive wood may crack (most woods would under the same environmental pressures) in a recorder mouthpiece, a flute may not. What causes flute timbers to crack is often times the head liner and other metal tuning slide components. The timber will naturally expand and contract as moisture and temperature change. The metal parts will not move as much. Pressure and stress results and the timber is weaker and it cracks. Again, inventive designs and material can get around that. You don't have to fully line the head. The tuning slide can be wrapped in a flexible material like cork that will cushion the timber from the contraction forces against the slide tubing - or make the slide of a polymer material. So unless the maker feels they have to strictly summon up the ghosts of Rudall, Pratten, Nicholson, et al in their design and manufacture process we have solutions we can employ that would make olive far less likely to crack than it might on a baroque recorder.
Still, you pay your money and you take your chances. That's the nature of wood.
Feadoggie
I've proven who I am so many times, the magnetic strips worn thin.