For the reed makers

[Ailin]

Okay, so I've made my very first reed. 2nd if you don't count the one that never made it past the slip sanding stage (found out it had a crack in it from the start). However, the reed needs a little more tweaking. I am first going to wait until at least early next week before I do anything further with it and see if settles down any with play.

In the meantime, for the experienced reed makers, here is my question. The reed plays sharp +10 to +20 throughout the range of the chanter (Seth Gallagher's). Rushing the chanter or extending the reed out as far as it will go only flattens it slightly. The volume is also slightly louder than I would like it to be, and the tone is slightly harsher than I would like it to be as well. The bridle is already about as far down as it can go, half over the binding. The overall length of the reed is slightly (.020) longer than suggested in Seth Gallagher's manual.

Should I, in order of least permanence:

1) Unwrap the binding far enough to move the reed head out slightly, re-wrap and take it from there.
2) As outlined in David Quinn's manual, sand or scrape the reed slightly more. His manual indicates this will flatten the pitch. Plus, I would think this should bring the volume down a bit and soften the tone as well. The question here is what part of the scrape to take more cane off, the whole or selected areas.
3) Some method I am unaware of that experienced reedmaker's might have up their sleeve.

Meanwhile, I have an e-mail in to Seth G to see what he suggests but wanted to see what the consensus may be here.

Thanks!
Ailin

PS - I highly recommend NPU's "The Heart of the Instrument" DVD. Without it I am sure I never would have come this close to a good reed on my first try, having had absolutely no prior experience.

[Brazenkane]

There are too many unknown variables here, but I'll stab at it (and probably hit an artery).

Just going by what your saying; if the reed isn't finished and is too loud, AND is sharp. It MAY be a combination of
1. not scraped enough
2. too open (= too loud)
3. both 1 & 2
4. none of the above, but that's doubtful
5. or, it could be something totally different!

[Ailin]

I thought so!

[Ailin]

It was thought to be a nearly completed reed by the way.

[Brazenkane]

don't ever think that about a reed. i say this w/much regret as I wish it was that easy.

i have a great reed in my concert chanter that i made a year ago. the other day, i did some (irreversible) adjustments. all is well, and i thought the same thing you did, "i thought i was done with this?" ..the thing is, really...reeds change...when you've just made one, and less later on, but usually the move overtime...things happen.

Continue Gouge thy cane, but not thy brain!

[Brian Lee]

I tend to have the same problem on my Gallagher chanter when the slips are still just a touch too thick. Try taking it down a bit more either on the sanding cylinder or the scrape and see what that does for you.

[Ailin]

I have pretty much decided that I will try sanding it down or scraping it a bit more. First I am going to wait several more days of playing the reed to see how much, if at all, it settles down any.

Ailin

[Brian Lee]

some reeds can take weeks and even months of playing to soften. And of course, some never do and need to be taken down a bit manually (scraping etc.) YMMV.

[fancypiper]

Are the octaves in tune with each other?

Answering your idea about staple insertion into the reed head:

Inserting the staple further into the reed head will sharpen the 2nd octave relative to the first octave.

Withdrawing the staple from the reed head will flatten the 2nd octave relative to the first octave.

Doing either changes the opening of the reed lips, so the bridle will have to be adjusted to correct.

[fancypiper]

2) As outlined in David Quinn's manual, sand or scrape the reed slightly more. His manual indicates this will flatten the pitch. Plus, I would think this should bring the volume down a bit and soften the tone as well. The question here is what part of the scrape to take more cane off, the whole or selected areas.

Selected areas unless it is an armbreaker of a reed.

If you don't get a high pitched squeal on the suck test (crow), the thickness is probably very close and you need to avoid scraping in the top 2/3 of the scraped area.

Scraping the bottom third of the scrape will weaken and flatten the reed and ease the Hard D. I first change the shape from a V to U, then scrape a scoop in that area. This is for my Mark Hillmann D chanter, possibly not needed on most chanters.

I just need to change the V to U on the Gallagher C chanter reeds.

Scraping in the bark/scrape interface around about the top 2/3 of the scrape will change the behavior of second octave E, I.E. needed if you can't blow the octaves into tune or if octave E squeals.

Good luck, it took slightly over 60 tries before I got a good reed made.

[Ailin]

Inexperienced reedmaker's log:
So here it is a little over a week later, and what results from just waiting! The reed did indeed settle down quite a bit. All the problems it had just after "completing" it have resolved on their own. Now the reed is just slightly sharp on the high B and very slightly flat on C sharp. All other notes are within a few cents of where they ought to be. The volume and tone are very good and blend with the drones nicely. At this point I am sure I can not do anything further with this reed to improve it without ruining it but am very happy with it!
Meanwhile, on to the next reed........

Ailin

[pudinka]

Here's something else for reed making...better hurry.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Uilleann-Reedmaking ... dZViewItem