Flute for Beginner: Dixon 3-piece or Tipple?

[Doug_Tipple]

for more volume, bigger holes are more suitable then smaller holes???

Like many things, there is a trade-off when it comes to finger hole size. Ideally, you would like to have finger holes that are easy to cover, and smaller holes are easier to cover. On the other, larger finger holes, though harder to cover, allow for a stronger, clearer note on most flutes (but not all). Another advantage of larger finger holes is that they are easier to half-hole for the chromatic notes, and slurs are easier. Better second octave intonation is another reason that I favor the larger tone holes on my flutes. There is much to be said, however, for the happy-medium with regard to tone hole size. Keep in mind that this is all an over-generalization.

[Kirk B]

Ah, ok, thank you very much!
So for a strong lower octave, especially the low d, and for more volume, bigger holes are more suitable then smaller holes???

In general yes, bigger holes and a larger bore will make more volume. The strong lower octave depends on other things as well like overall design, the embouchure cut, the bore shape, and of course the player.

[doktor73]

Hi!

Sorry for my many requests...
Though this thread is many weeks old, I was not dealing with selecting a flute every day because of my job...

But NOW I am sure about telling you this, Doug:
I will order a Tipple 3-piece, 6-hole low D flute with a lip plate headjoint and 2-semicircles oval embouchure hole + preinstalled (already fixed) Tipple-Fajardo wedge in a few days!!! I will present myself with it on Christmas...
Unfortunately, the shipping conditions to Europe/Germany are so expensive I think...

[an seanduine]

Congratulations on your choice! I assure you you will not suffer regret, and may have acquired a flute that will give you pleasure for many years to come. I have just such a flute as you have described as part of my 'collection'. It has a favored position.
I would have responded to your thread/question sooner but that my experience is not exactly relevant. I have both a Tipple and a conic section Dixon, but my Dixon is an older model and not precisely the same as the current DX30 model offered now. It is a four section flute with an extended foot and a rather large Modern-cut embouchure. Not really a flute to easily compare to one of Doug's master-pieces. It is capable of surprising volume for a small holed Rudall-type bore, and of course is nearly indestructible making it ideal for a pub-session, or even a bar-brawl!
Doug's flutes on the other hand are amazing musical instruments capable of almost anything you might call upon them to do. The embouchure is only slightly smaller than that on my modern Rudall-copy six key flute and complements my playing when I trade them off. The tone-holes are much closer to a Pratten style in size. Altogether this flute should launch you well on your flute journey. Learn good hand position with the Tipple, and learn to drive the embouchure using Ben Jaber's example of what is possible, and you will be quite well prepared for almost any other flute you might meet along your way.
Again I congratulate you on your choice.

Bob

[BullFighter]

Hi!

Sorry for my many requests...
Though this thread is many weeks old, I was not dealing with selecting a flute every day because of my job...

But NOW I am sure about telling you this, Doug:
I will order a Tipple 3-piece, 6-hole low D flute with a lip plate headjoint and 2-semicircles oval embouchure hole + preinstalled (already fixed) Tipple-Fajardo wedge in a few days!!! I will present myself with it on Christmas...
Unfortunately, the shipping conditions to Europe/Germany are so expensive I think...

This is the way to go!
You'll have THE FLUTE... I play antique flutes, and the only one I have by a modern maker is a Tipple. I have tried M&E, Seery... but i found the antique ones and the Tipple's the most pleasant to play... and switching between them is really easy.. that embouchure with the lip plate is EXCELLENT...

[doktor73]

Hi!

Hmm, concerning the Tipple 3-piece, 6-hole low D flute with a lip plate headjoint and 2-semicircles oval embouchure hole + Tipple-Fajardo wedge, I am indetermined concerning the finger holes: Should I prefer inline or offset finger holes? Which is standard practice e. g. considering good wooden flutes?

HERE the flute does NOT have offset holes...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCLpOk4A ... re=related

And which kind of holes does Ben use?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvAPt6V3GDY

Michael

[Doug_Tipple]

Hi!

Hmm, concerning the Tipple 3-piece, 6-hole low D flute with a lip plate headjoint and 2-semicircles oval embouchure hole + Tipple-Fajardo wedge, I am indetermined concerning the finger holes: Should I prefer inline or offset finger holes? Which is standard practice e. g. considering good wooden flutes?

HERE the flute does NOT have offset holes...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCLpOk4A ... re=related

And which kind of holes does Ben use?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvAPt6V3GDY

Michael

To answer your question, Michael, for all to hear, Ben Jaber is playing a flute with inline finger holes, and he is using piper's grip with both hands, with his finger tips extending way over the tone holes. Inline finger holes is the way to go if you plan to hold the flute this way. Personally, I like to have a little offset for the two ring fingers with my smaller hands on this large flute, as I use a more classical grip with my left hand. Since this is a custom flute, you can specify the amount of offset. With a small amount of offset for L3 and R3 you can still play with piper's grip, if you decide to do that. Regarding your question about standard practice for good wooden flutes, I would say that inline holes is the standard.

[doktor73]

Hi!

Hmm... so I understand you right:
Although for the classical grip a small offset would be helpful, inline holes is standard practice for good wooden flutes?
Hmm, seems to be a little bit "incoherent"....
So because I am already learning Low D-Whistle and for this reason I will change the instruments very often, inline holes would be the better choice for me?
At the Low D-Whistle, I am using the piper's grip.

@all of you having a TIPPLE: What do YOU prefer?

[Denny]

in-line is historically correct, it has only been the last few years that Boehm players at the professional level have begun to accept the offset G as a good thing.

Ergonomics has made a few inroads over the years....

The question of in-line or straight is user dependent. I can't remember a current maker that will not offset L3 and/or R3. It depends on the player's grip and body.

As I have an over six foot wing span and use a classical grip, I prefer an offset G and a straight right hand. (my elbow is far enough from my shoulder that the offset R3 is too close to reach because of the angle my had comes at the flute from. -Or- my right elbow is an acute angle most people are obtuse)

[Feadoggie]

@all of you having a TIPPLE: What do YOU prefer?

Like Denny says

The question of in-line or straight is user dependent.

If you came from a classical flute and grip background I might suggest you try offset holes. If you have no current grip preference I might suggest in-line holes and that you try a flat-fingered grip like the piper's grip. For a beginner there is less tension in the hands and wrists. But that's just my opinion. You have been analyzing things but you haven't held a flute in your hands. What I do suggest is that you get on with it. Order a Tipple with in-line holes. If you can't come to grips with that, get one with offset holes. Start your own voyage of discovery.

Feadoggie

[keithsandra]

I have two Tipple flutes and three of his head joints. IMO, you've already made the right buying decision in getting a Tipple. You're going to have a blast. The question of piper's grip or classical grip doesn't arise because you can order Doug's new four section flute. That will allow you to make whatever adjustments your fingers need.

Good luck.

K.

[Denny]

The question of piper's grip or classical grip doesn't arise because you can order Doug's new four section flute. That will allow you to make whatever adjustments your fingers need.

How does that work?

[keithsandra]

You can adjust the G up and the D down. As for spread, I see Doug's lessened the gap between the A and the G, and between the D and the E, at least comparing the two Tipple flutes I have. So unless we're talking about some singularly different hand dimensions, surely Doug's new four piece flute will help a player to find his/her best adjustments to suit either the classic or piper mode...?

Or did you have something else in mind I'm missing, Denny?

All the best,

K.

[Denny]

I do kinda remember Doug adding the joint between B2 & B3.
I don't remember the one between T2 & T3.

I was probably thinking of the joint between top & bottom, what doesn't do a thing for offset third finger.

[BullFighter]

Doug, You have to make a 7-section flute, in order to put joints in ALL gaps between finger holes!